Devil’s Glen PP plan amended to include rock climbing
The Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks approved an amendment to the Devil’s Glen Provincial Park Management Plan April 13, changing it from recreation class park to Natural Environment.
The new management plan also formally recognizes rock climbing as a use and amends the park boundary to include an adjacent 18 ha parcel of acquired land.
The ministry says the Niagara Escarpment Commission recommended the new classification to recognize the significant natural functions of the park. The stated objective is to protect: provincially rare, provincially uncommon and regionally uncommon plant and animal species, including species at risk; regionally significant incised river valley, as well as ecological features and communities associated with the Niagara Escarpment; and the high-quality cold-water fishery habitat for Brook Trout in the Mad River.
The plan was last amended in 1994 when the 45-site campground was decommissioned. The new classification “recognizes the park’s unique life science and earth science features and the recreational values of the park. The previous recreational classification of the park was deemed no longer appropriate given the removal of the campgrounds and facilities and its environmental functions.”
No additional camping or picnicking facilities are proposed because the land is too steep and fragile to be suitable for further development.
Climbing will be allowed only in areas supported by Ontario Parks and designated by the park superintendent.
“It is recognized that the Devil’s Glen cliff area is highly saturated with existing climbing routes and the need or capacity to create new route opportunities is generally low,” states the plan. “However, if opportunities are identified in suitable areas, Ontario Parks has the sole discretion to determine whether a new climbing area is appropriate. Installation of bolts or other fixed anchors and establishment of new climbing areas of any kind will not be allowed without authorization of the park superintendent.”
“This is a major milestone — not just for climbing access, but for how outdoor recreation and conservation can work together. The updated plan includes policies to formally authorize and manage rock climbing in the park, creating a path forward for safe, sustainable access. This is a big step forward, and it sets an important precedent for climbing in provincial parks across Ontario,” reads a statement from the Ontario Alliance of Climbers. “This outcome reflects years of work and being a good partner with OntarioParks, the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks, and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC). It’s also a testament to the climbing community’s commitment to stewardship, safety, and respect for the environment.”
